For most of 2023, we have been watching Taylor the Nahamsha Hiker’s YouTube videos where she vlogs her hikes, and more specifically her Appalachian Trail hikes. We invested in gear and decided to start dabbling in tent camping and longer hikes. Back in September when we took our truck camper to Shenandoah National Park we had planned to hike the Appalachian Trail, tent camp for one night, and head back to our camper. We miscalculated our route and that didn’t work out as planned.
We gave tent camping another try at the end of October when we took a ferry from St. Mary’s, Georgia and camped at Cumberland Island National Seashore. The island is located off the coast of Georgia and is only accessible by boat. Cumberland Island is home to a variety of wildlife, including wild horses that roam freely throughout the island. The island is also home to wild pigs, armadillos, deer, turkey, alligators, dolphins, manatees, and mosquitos and chiggers. More on that later.
Once we disembarked from the ferry we set off on the Parallel Trail, which would lead us the approximate 3.5 miles to Stafford Campground where we had booked our site. I was immediately awestruck by the beauty and magic of the island. The Spanish moss in the live oaks, while gross is also very beautiful. The beauty combined with the new adventure was making a great experience.
Not long into our almost two-hour walk to our campsite from the ferry, we heard something barrelling toward us in the brush. Startled, we stopped in our tracks just as whatever it was saw us and ran in the direction it had come. We caught a black shape coming through the bushes and based on the height and size, we think it was a pig.
Once we got to our site we set up camp and then walked down to the beach. The campground is located in a wooded area just a short walk from the beach. The campsites are spacious and well-maintained, and there are plenty of amenities available, including potable water, restrooms and COLD showers. Further north on the island you lose these amenities at the campgrounds.
The view at the beach, though beautiful, was spoiled on one side due to the large manufacturing plant just off the coast. We went back to our site to plan the rest of our visit, which would include catching the sunset at the beach that night and attempting to hike to the far end of the island the next day.
That night while we slept we heard horses; we peeked out of our tent and saw that they were grazing in the field across from our site. When planning our trip I was probably most excited to see the horses, but at that moment I was afraid they would somehow accidentally trample us while we we slept. The first time we ran across them on the trail, we were both nervous. There were plenty of warnings online and reminders from park volunteers that the horses may kick or bite. During our trip every time we ran across horses on the trail, we either proceeded with caution or found a way around them.
The next morning we woke up early and caught the sunrise at the beach. Even better than the sunrise was the unexpected moonset. The moon was gigantic over the horizon and was absolutely breathtaking.
We set out for Plum Orchard, the former residence of some of the Carnegie family. The island is rich in history, and we enjoyed learning a little bit about it at the home. By the time we got to Plum Orchard we were tired, covered in bug bites and my feet were covered in blisters. I no longer have the shoes I wore for that trip because that trip taught me they were done. I was miserable.
During our walk, we saw a huge group of pigs who thankfully took off when they saw us. We ended up on the Willow Trail, which was accidental but when I read the description now as I write this post it sounds like a cool trail. It wasn’t. Perhaps if you’re wearing pants, have adequate bug protection on and it’s winter it would be a different story.
Plum Orchard is honestly not that far from Stafford Campground–maybe four miles. However, as you head further up the island you enter the wilderness area. We felt like we walked through a wall at one point, and once we passed through that wall we were covered in insects.
After taking the Plum Orchard tour we decided we would forego our original plan to walk to Brickhill Bluff–another six miles away–and head back to the campsite. This time we took the main road which was way less buggy. We didn’t plan to be back to our site so early, but we were both pretty miserable.
We killed some time doing mostly nothing, ate dinner, packed up what we could since we were leaving very early the next morning, and went to bed. We woke up around 4 a.m. or so, packed up our campsite by the light of our headlamps, and headed to ward the Sea Camp dock. We planned to get to the ferry dock area, drop our packs, and walk another mile to the famous Dungeness Ruins for sunrise. The ruins are another Carnegie home that was unfortunately destroyed by fire.
On our way to the ruins we encountered another pig (we think), and saw our first deer on the island. Once at the ruins we saw a few horses and found that you must dodge horse manure at almost every step on the back side of the ruins. We collected more bug bites, took some cool photos, and headed back to the dock to wait for the ferry. Once we were back home that night, we realized our bug bites weren’t from only mosquitoes, but chiggers as well. A week of itchy hell followed our trip but even so, I would do it all over again.
I have wanted to visit Cumberland Island and experience the natural beauty of the island for a long time. Tent camping on the island is an unforgettable experience. You have the best of both worlds–a short walk to the waves crashing on the shore and miles of hiking in the woods. Whether you’re an experienced camper or a first-timer, camping at Stafford Campground on Cumberland Island is an adventure you won’t want to miss. Just don’t forget the right bug spray and be prepared to dodge a lot of horse poop.
