The Plan: Chasing a Smoky Mountain Sunrise

We set out to hike the Rainbow Falls Trail to Mount LeConte Lodge — 6.7 miles up, 3,993 feet of elevation, and a lot of anticipation. The goal? A fog-free sunrise at Myrtle Point and a cozy night in one of the Smokies’ most iconic backcountry lodges.

We knew rain was in the forecast, but we packed layers, optimism, and a lot of trail snacks.

How to Score a Spot at LeConte Lodge

Getting a reservation at LeConte Lodge is a bit like catching a sunrise from the summit — it takes planning, patience, and a little luck. The lodge operates seasonally from late March through late November, and demand is high for this off-grid experience at 6,593 feet.

The Process

Reservations are handled through a written request system, not a typical booking calendar. Here’s how it works:

• Submit one written request per party during the designated submission window (usually late August to late September for the following year).
• Use the online request form — it’s the preferred method.
• List as many date options as possible to increase your chances.
• Requests are not processed in the order received. All submissions are held and processed simultaneously with phone calls starting October 1.
• If your request is successful, you’ll receive a confirmation and invoice via email. If not, you won’t be notified or added to a waitlist — so it’s worth trying again next year.
• A waitlist for advanced notice cancellations is posted on their website in mid-December.

Pro Tips

• Mark your calendar for the submission window.
• Be flexible with dates — weekday stays and shoulder season dates tend to have better availability.
• Follow the Lodge on X for last-minute cancellation opportunities.

The Hike Up: Mist, Moss, and Rainbow Falls

The trail greeted us with damp leaves, misty switchbacks, and the roar of Rainbow Falls halfway up. Despite the dreary conditions, we were excited about adventure ahead.

Earlier in the week, a giant tree fell on Trillium Gap Trail, forcing the llamas to skip their Wednesday trek up the mountain. We learned it was possible they were going up the same day we were. Determined to reach the lodge by noon to see the llamas, we hiked as fast as possible, about 2 mph.

LeConte Lodge: Unplugged at 6,593 feet

We got to LeConte Lodge and it felt like time paused. No cell signal, no outlets — just old cabins, kerosene lamps, and quiet. It reminded me how good it feels to unplug without trying.

LeConte Lodge is one of the only backcountry lodges in the U.S. that you can’t drive to — you earn every bite of dinner. The lodge is resupplied by llamas three times a week.

The sun had finally come out halfway through our hike. At check-in, we learned the llamas were eating lunch behind the dining hall and would be heading back down around 2 p.m. We hiked up to Cliff Tops to catch the view before clouds rolled back in, then headed to the dining hall deck to watch the llamas pack out dirty linens.

We grabbed some coffee and hot chocolate from the daily drink service, which is available to lodge guests between 2 and 4 p.m. and sat in the rocking chairs on the deck to chat with other lodge guests.

Dinner at LeConte Lodge felt like a mountain family reunion — even if you’d never met anyone before. The dinner bell rang at six, and we all squeezed around long tables for a hot, hearty meal: beef and gravy, mashed potatoes, green beans, stewed apples, and chocolate chip cookies. Coffee and hot chocolate flowed freely, and if you’d pre-ordered wine, they brought it out like it was a celebration. We skipped breakfast the next morning, but we hear it is just as comforting — scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, biscuits, pancakes, grits, and Tang.

LeConte Lodge Amenities

There are two bathrooms at the top: a pit toilet for day hikers and one for guests. The lodge guest bathroom is locked, and each cabin comes equipped with a key to one of four flush toilet stalls. There are also two safe, potable drinking water spigots on either end of the property.

Cabins feature rustic bunkbeds, a table and chair, a kerosene lamp and matches, a heater, a wash basin and bucket for hot water, and a lidded can to store anything from your pack that might attract rodents or bears.

We stayed in cabin #4, which afforded a view over the valley and a short walk to the bathroom. According to a guest who had stayed the night before, a bear was hanging from the roof of our cabin the day before we arrived. One of the guests at our dinner table also mentioned seeing a bear on the way to dinner from their cabin, which was on the far opposite side of where ours was located. As soon as these guests sat at the dinner table, the lodge staff rushed outside to scare the bear away.

Heading down: Grotto Falls via Trillium Gap

We left LeConte Lodge at 7 a.m. with full hearts and muddy boots. The top was socked in with fog and we had somewhere to be, so we skipped the sunrise and breakfast and began descending via the Trillium Gap Trail — a quieter, more forgiving path that winds through old-growth forest and past the magical Grotto Falls — the only waterfall in the Smokies you can walk behind. It’s the trail the llamas use. And on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, if you’re lucky, you’ll pass them on their way up. If you take this trail, be mindful of the llama droppings.

The trail felt softer, the mood more reflective. It felt like a scene out of Lord of the Rings with the fog hanging over the mossy trail. We passed a hiker coming up who mentioned he had seen a bear cub a mile and a half back, but we didn’t see a bear until we reached the trailhead at the bottom. At Grotto Falls we paused to soak in the mist and the moment.

We booked it down so we could shower and change before heading to an owner’s retreat with our van builder and other van owners. I have read complaints that Trillium feels like it takes forever, but I was enjoying the scenery, and we encountered many going up on our way down so it kept things interesting.

Although Mount LeConte didn’t give us postcard views — it gave us something better: a reminder that the journey matters more than the summit.

Final Thoughts

Would I hike it again in foggy weather? Absolutely. Because sometimes, the best adventures are the ones that don’t go as planned — and still leave you changed.

Know Before You Go to LeConte Lodge

Check for road closures and trail conditions/closures for Great Smoky Mountains National Park when planning your visit. At the time we went, there was an advisory that bear activity was high at Trillium Gap.

Check the Mountain Weather website for the forecast, as temperatures and weather vary from Gatlinburg.

We parked at the Rainbow Falls/Bullhead Parking A trailhead so that we would be fairly close to the Trillium Gap trailhead on the descent. It adds mileage to your hike, but was worth it to easily experience two different trails without having to rely on a shuttle service.

LeConte Lodge Packing List

Trail Essentials

• Sturdy hiking boots (broken in, with good tread)
• Trekking poles (especially helpful on slick or rocky sections)
• Daypack or overnight pack with rain cover
• Water bottles or hydration bladder (2+ liters)
• Trail snacks (nuts, bars, dried fruit)
• Headlamp or flashlight (with extra batteries — no electricity!)
• Map or downloaded trail info (cell service is spotty to non-existent)
• Bear spray (I get the impression the bears don’t care about people in this area, but better safe than sorry, I guess)

Clothing & Layers

• Moisture-wicking base layers
• Insulating mid-layer (fleece or down)
• Waterproof jacket or poncho
• Warm hat and gloves (temps can dip into the 40s even in early fall)
• Extra socks (wool or synthetic — no cotton)
• Sleepwear (cozy but compact)
• Change of clothes for lodge lounging

Lodge Comforts

• Small towel and washcloth (for sponge baths — wash basins provided)
• Toiletries (toothbrush, biodegradable soap, etc.)
• Cash or check (for souvenirs or tipping staff)
• Notebook or journal (great for reflecting in the quiet)

Extras for the Experience

• Snacks for before/after meals (meals are hearty but fixed)
• Optional: instant coffee or tea bags (if you want extras outside meal hours)
• Camera or phone with night mode
• Portable charger (non-noise-making, solar or battery-powered)
• Small string or clip (to hang flashlight near bunk)
• Lightweight blanket or sleep sack (bedding is provided, but some like extras)